When it comes to purchasing cauliflower, the vegetable’s lily-whiteness and delicate flesh make it straightforward to let you know’re choosing a winner. Accessible for a lot of the yr, peaking in autumn, search for a clear cover (AKA “curd”) and sprightly leaves. For an additional good indicator, test beneath the place the pinnacle has been lopped off from the stalk – the extra moisture there, the brisker your florets. Any “ashiness” (in color and texture) of the stalk or discolouration on the curd tells you these heads have seen some issues, but it surely’s nothing that the flick of a paring knife or peeler can’t resolve.
Floppy florets are additionally not the tip of the world – use them in a cauliflower soup and other people will likely be none the wiser. It’s all the time less expensive to purchase an entire head and easily add any leftovers – roasted or steamed – to bulk out no matter dish you’re making the subsequent day.
Cauliflower can last as long as two weeks within the crisper if the leaves are sprightly whenever you purchase it. Should you insist on going with a cauli half, both stand it in a jar of water on the underside shelf of your fridge or wrap it loosely earlier than storing within the crisper to gradual the inevitable drying-out course of. By the way, you too can freeze blanched cauli florets flat on a tray earlier than packing into parts and popping again into the freezer.
Cauliflower leaves are surprisingly tasty. Wash and pat or spin them dry, tear into items, toss with olive oil, vinegar, lemon zest and salt, and lay in a single layer on wire racks set over baking trays, and roast at 160C/140C fan till they’re golden and crispy. Should you’re getting ready a recipe that solely requires the florets, don’t you dare throw out the guts – it’s my favorite bit. Slice off the tip of the stalk to point out you ways a lot woody outer layer must be peeled, then use a paring knife or peeler to entry the candy, candy paler stalk inside. Eat this uncooked as you would possibly a celery stick, and think about sharing with any small individuals round. It’ll hook them on brassicas for all times – they usually would possibly even write about it sooner or later.
‘Double denim’ cauliflower and asparagus mac ’n‘ cheese – recipe
Keep in mind when Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears had been relationship and went to the American Music Awards carrying double double denim? Properly, between his hair (noodles) and her surname (Spears), I convey you this dish. Typically, mac ’n‘ cheese recipes are let down by too many steps (I’m taking a look at you, bechamel sauce), so what I like about this one is that the one factor standing between you and a bowl of oozy deliciousness studded with luxurious asparagus is how lengthy it takes to boil the pasta. Should you don’t have time to fuss round with cooking the veggies, chop the asparagus into high quality discs and toss into the colander simply earlier than draining the pasta water by way of it; it will prepare dinner the asparagus simply sufficient to take the uncooked edge off.
You can even grate among the cauliflower by way of the cooked pasta simply earlier than turning off the warmth and draining. Pouring loads of boiling water over a cupful or two of frozen peas in a bowl is one other elective however glorious veg addition.
Serves 4
500g macaroni (or gluten-free pasta)
3–4 bunches of asparagus, about 600g
½ head of cauliflower, with leaves
100g butter
300g comté (or gruyere or cheddar), grated
250g parmesan, grated
Olive oil, for drizzling
For the bonus beurre noisette
80g butter
1 handful of uncooked or roasted hazelnuts
Seize your largest pot, fill it three-quarters filled with water, add loads of salt and produce to a vigorous boil. Add the macaroni, setting a timer for 3 minutes earlier than the packet says the pasta will likely be prepared.
In the meantime, snap off the woody ends of the asparagus and put aside, then slice the stalks and spears into bite-sized items. Chop the cauliflower into forkful-sized florets and the stalks into bite-sized items. Lower the leaves to forkful dimension and put aside.
Soften the 100g butter in a big non-stick saucepan.
When your macaroni timer goes off, pop the cauliflower into the pasta pot then reset the timer for an additional two minutes. When the timer goes off once more, add the asparagus stalks and spears, then reset the timer for one minute extra. Scoop out and reserve a mugful of pasta water, then rigorously pour the asparagus, cauliflower and pasta combination right into a colander to empty.
To make the beurre noisette, pop the reserved asparagus ends and cauliflower leaves within the now-empty pasta pot with the 80g unmelted butter and hazelnuts. Permit to bubble away and brown over medium warmth till the pot smells as if you’re baking cookies in it. Set the greens apart for the garnish.
In the meantime, warmth the saucepan containing the melted butter over a medium-high. Sprinkle the comte and about 200g of the parmesan in, then add the cooked pasta, veggies and mugful of reserved pasta water. Stir till every thing combines into one wonderful oozy mess. Season to style with salt and loads of cracked black pepper.
To serve, portion the mac ’n‘ cheese into serving bowls and high with the brown butter combine. Sprinkle with the remaining parmesan, a few cracks of black pepper, drizzle with a glug of olive oil and serve.
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That is an edited extract from In Reward of Veg by Alice Zaslavsky, pictures by Ben Dearnley, revealed by Murdoch Books in Australia (A$59.99) and the UK (£25), and within the US (US$35) and Canada (C$45) the place it’s revealed by Urge for food by Random Home
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