Saint Laurent has cross-generational cool. On the final night time of Paris trend week, Kate Moss sat subsequent to Catherine Deneuve, each in black tailoring, sheer blouses and excessive heels. Pedro Almodóvar and Rossy de Palma smiled for the cameras, whereas Hailey Bieber and Charli XCX saved their shades on.
Saint Laurent’s daytime silhouette this season is an inverted triangle, with broad shoulders narrowing to slim skirts and sheer tights. For night, it flipped the wrong way up, with slinky sweaters and grand ball skirts. The colors had been of cocktail ring gems: emerald, sapphire, ruby and garnet.
There was leopard print, naturally, in silk blouses with a silicone gloss. With slicked-back hair, shards of rock crystal jewelry, arms nonchalantly in pockets – nothing so mundane as a purse right here – the fashions oozed aloof Parisian stylish, sauntering simply in spike heels to the voice of Nina Simone.
Designer Anthony Vaccarello stated earlier than the present he needed the look to be clear, no ornamentation, no ornament. “Simplicity of silhouette – as if created with a couple of pencil strokes – has outlined the Saint Laurent preferrred.”
Beneath Vaccarello, the home of Saint Laurent has its sights set greater than trend. Not content material with being one of many main names in model, the corporate has ambitions to be a cultural powerhouse. This present was moved from its common slot at the start of Paris trend week to the top to keep away from a conflict with the Oscars, as a result of Saint Laurent Productions is now a completely – fledged film studio, producing the multi Oscar-nominated Emilia Pérez.
The destiny of Emilia Peréz was torpedoed midway via award season by the disclosure of racist tweets by star Karla Sofia Gascón, however this has not deterred Saint Laurent, which has additionally produced Parthenope, a brand new movie by Paolo Sorrentino. Movie is seen by Saint Laurent as a platform to amplify its cool picture past model into the broader tradition, and Vaccarello recreated Yves Saint Laurent’s well-known 1966 Le Smoking tuxedo jacket for the actor Celeste Dalla Porta to put on on display. A Saint Laurent-backed mission with the director Jim Jarmusch can be within the works.
Saint Laurent’s cultural ambitions are additionally mirrored in an bold revamp of its Paris flagship boutique in collaboration with the Judd Basis, which promotes the work of the late American artist Donald Judd. Furnishings by Judd is on the market on the Paris retailer, displayed alongside Saint Laurent night robes and purses, whereas an exhibition of Judd’s woodcuts and prints is on show on an higher ground. The home has additionally diversified into the restaurant business, with the opening of a Paris department of LA’s Sushi Park.
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