Braised hen with grapes, wine and vinegar
Pizzutella is a white or black grape selection. The identify comes from the shape: cylindrical and ending in some extent, and the dialect for some extent is pizzutella. It’s a range grown extensively in Italy, with some regional variations being much less pointy and extra flexible, therefore the choice names uva corna (horn grape) or minnevacca (cow’s nipple). In Spain, they’re known as dedo de dama, which corresponds with the Californian identify woman fingers, whereas in Algeria they’re often known as nab el djemel (camel tooth), and in France cornichon blanc.
In addition to having nice names, skinny pores and skin and agency and candy pulp, pizzutella have been Carla Tomasi’s favorite grape; she would purchase bunches on the market close to her highschool, then eat them between classes. This endorsement overrules any criticism by those that dismiss them as straightforward consuming, which they’re – particularly the seedless sub-varieties. Seeds, although, lend extra flavour, and I just like the crunch. Pizzutella have additionally been on supply all week at our native grocery store, which is why I used them for right now’s recipe.
It’s one other variation on pollo alla cacciatora, or hunter’s or poacher’s-style hen, which has similarities to coniglio (rabbit) alla cacciatora. These names have been probably given by city trattorias to evoke a country scene, whereas the hunter, or whoever cooked his catch, merely known as the dish “coniglio”. Names apart, it’s certainly one of my most popular dishes; the items browned, seasoning added, every thing lined with wine, then simmered till completed. The grapes are added in the direction of the tip of the cooking, so that they soften and wrinkle, however keep roughly themselves within the thick, barely sweetened juices.
Within the grape chapter of her magnificent fruit e book, Jane Grigson says that grapes for cooking must be peeled and pipped (until their particles goes to be strained out of the sauce). I disagree, particularly when the grapes are paired with meat: oxtail, duck and, most of all sausages, the place the skins cease the flesh collapsing into pulp and add tannins to the sauce. Provided that the skins have been extremely thick or leathery would I ask another person in the home to drag them off. I’m not bothered about seeds, both, however I do know others are, so scoop out the pips, which suggests the grapes must be halved. In case you have pizzutella, although, or one thing related, they’ll go in complete.
If all goes properly, there can be a superb quantity of thickened juices, so a couple of boiled potatoes are good, alternatively mashed potato, rice, or bread.
One other disagreement I’ve with my favorite meals author is her disparaging view of wobbly jelly in visitors gentle colors. I do, nevertheless, just like the sound of her grown-up grape jelly with Grand Marnier and cream: for that, I might fortunately peel my pizzutella.
Braised hen with grapes, wine and vinegar
Serves 4
1.8 kg hen (or 4 thighs)
Salt
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 pink onion, peeled and sliced
A pinch of pink chilli flakes
1 sprig of recent rosemary
400ml white wine
300g white or pink grapes
Purple-wine vinegar, to style
Lower the hen into 10-12 items and season with salt. In a deep saute pan with a lid giant sufficient to suit the meat in a comfortable, single layer, heat three tablespoons of olive oil over a medium warmth. Add the meat skin-side down and cook dinner till the pores and skin types a golden crust, then flip them over and do the identical on the opposite facet. It will take about quarter-hour. Elevate the hen on to a plate.
Again within the pan, which ought to have good, crusty juices, soften the onion over a low warmth (including two tablespoons olive oil, if wanted), then return the hen to the pan with the chilli flakes, rosemary, white wine and a few salt. Cowl the pan and switch the warmth all the way down to low.
Maintain checking the meat, turning on occasion. After 40 minutes, add the grapes and canopy for 5 extra minutes, then uncover and proceed cooking till the hen is tender, the grapes gentle and the juices decreased to a thickish gravy. Within the final minutes of cooking, style to see if it wants sharpening with the red-wine vinegar, and any extra salt.
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