You’ve acquired broadly two choices when planning an low season rail journey in Europe. Hop on a sleeper practice and velocity as far south as you possibly can within the hope of discovering some sunshine, or lean into the oncoming winter.
With an October half-term vacation looming, our household determined to embrace the second possibility, planning a “winterrailing” itinerary that might take us on a nine-day loop by way of central Europe, stopping off at cities that know a factor or two about hunkering down within the face of inclement climate and lengthy, darkish nights. We might watch the autumn colors unfurl from the consolation of a practice carriage, spend our days visiting museums and galleries, refuel with espresso and cake in cosy cafes, and perhaps even sneak in some early Christmas procuring. Not solely would we dodge the sticky discomfort of sightseeing in the warmth of summer time, we might keep away from the crowds and inflated costs that include peak-season journey.
That was the plan, nevertheless it appears Strasbourg didn’t get the memo. Having downloaded our digital Interrail passes and boarded the Eurostar in London on a murky late October morning, my associate, our teenage daughter and I emerge from Strasbourg station six hours later (by way of a fast platform change on to the TGV at Lille Europe) into dazzling sunshine. The sky is electrical blue and the suitcase of woolly jumpers and waterproofs that I’d insisted we pack for our low season jaunt already seems like a mistake. A lot for embracing winter – it’s not a sizzling chocolate I’m craving, however an Aperol spritz.
Inside half an hour of checking into our lodge, we’re within the coronary heart of Strasbourg’s outdated city, gazing up on the Notre-Dame Cathedral, its delicately carved sandstone facade glowing pink within the final embers of daylight. Accomplished within the 1400s, it was the tallest constructing on this planet for 2 centuries. Even in the present day, its 142-metre gothic spire packs a punch, hovering excessive above town centre.
The subsequent morning we return to the cathedral to climb the 332 steps to the viewing platform. Instantly under us lies Grande Île, the tangle of cobbled streets and squares lined with half-timbered buildings that make up the medieval coronary heart of town. Within the distance we are able to see the curving glass and metal constructions of the European Quarter, dwelling to the European parliament and the European Court docket of Human Rights, and past that, the hazy blue define of the Vosges mountains.
Whereas Strasbourg vies with Brussels for the title of “capital of Europe”, there’s one other function that town takes virtually as significantly – capitale de Noël. Relationship again to 1570, Strasbourg’s Christmas market is the oldest in France. Each November a 30-metre excessive Christmas tree – the tallest in Europe – is erected in Place Kléber and the encircling streets are remodeled right into a twinkling, cinnamon-scented wonderland, with 300 chalets promoting the whole lot from mulled wine to picket toys. On our go to, falling leaves moderately than fairy lights adorn the tree-lined canals, however there should be one thing within the air as I discover myself drawn right into a Tardis-like store known as La Magie de Noël, the place I’ve to withstand the urge to fill my basket with Christmas baubles and regionally made gingerbread.
Not solely is Strasbourg the self-styled capital of Christmas, it’s additionally the gastronomic coronary heart of Alsace, the easternmost area of France. This can be a land of hearty fare served in cosy wood-panelled bistros with gingham desk cloths, often known as Winstubs. On our second night time in Strasbourg, we descend a steep staircase into the heat subterranean embrace of Le Gurtlerhoft, a 14th-century vaulted cellar the place waiters deftly steadiness plates of steaming choucroute (sauerkraut) piled excessive with sausage and hunks of pork. As I do battle with a tureen of braised pork knuckle massive sufficient to serve a household of 5, I’ve to concede that it is a delicacies greatest suited to the chilly winter months.
Alsatian meals and structure are each closely influenced by the proximity of Germany, which lies simply the opposite aspect of the Rhine. The subsequent morning we catch a practice throughout the border to choose up the Black Forest Railway, which is able to take us south to Lake Constance. From the highest deck of the Deutsche Bahn practice we watch because the orderly vineyards and mild inexperienced pastures of the Kinzig valley give solution to one thing wilder. Because the sky darkens, we peer by way of rain-streaked home windows on the densely forested hillsides closing in on both aspect. Fiery swathes of oak and beech cling to the decrease slopes whereas the pine-clad rocky summits are coated in low cloud, lending a mysterious air to the panorama that famously impressed the fairytales of the Brothers Grimm.
On the assembly level of Germany, Switzerland and Austria, Lake Constance (Bodensee in German) is the third largest lake in Europe. On its western shore, the college city of Konstanz is a likable, low-key kind of place, with probably the greatest preserved medieval centres in Germany. Through the second world struggle, the residents saved their lights on throughout air raids to trick allied bombers into pondering they have been a part of impartial Switzerland. The ruse paid off, and the twisting alleys and service provider homes with their ornate picket gables and elaborate frescoes survived. The story of the city, from the stone age to its function within the struggle, is informed on the glorious Rosgarten Museum.
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Konstanz is a significant transport hub for the area, and in summer time the lengthy picket jetty is a hive of exercise with ferries crisscrossing the lake and boat journeys departing for the well-known “flower island” of Mainau (the gardens are open year-round). On a transparent day you possibly can see the Swiss Alps, apparently, however on our go to the lake is cloaked in a delicate veil of drizzle and the jetty is quiet. Irrespective of, it’s the right excuse to take pleasure in considered one of southern Germany’s best-loved traditions, Kaffee und Kuchen, at one of many city’s many cosy cafes.
One of many joys of travelling by rail is the chance to cease off in locations that you simply wouldn’t essentially make some extent of visiting as a standalone vacation spot. The suggestion to incorporate Lake Constance and the Black Forest Railway was made by the crew at Byway Journey, the rail-based vacation specialists who organized our journey. In fact, you possibly can purchase Interrail passes and put collectively your individual itinerary, however in the event you’re daunted by the prospect of learning rail timetables and making seat reservations, or would merely welcome some professional recommendation about how a lot of Europe it’s lifelike to cowl in every week, they will deal with all of that. They have been additionally in a position to notify us, by way of their WhatsApp help service, when considered one of our scheduled rail journeys was changed by a bus service and supply another.
One other surprising spotlight of the journey was our subsequent cease, Zurich. Switzerland’s largest metropolis is understood primarily as a significant monetary centre, however don’t let that put you off. Possibly it’s the late autumn sunshine glowing off the lake and bathing the whole lot in pearly mild, however the afternoon we spend there is likely one of the most pleasant I’ve spent mooching round an unknown metropolis in a very long time.
We begin with a stroll alongside the elegant Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s ritziest procuring avenue, earlier than diving into the slim alleys of the outdated city, lined with chocolate outlets, perfumiers and high-end boutiques. A fast peek contained in the Fraumünster church, well-known for its vivid stained-glass home windows by Marc Chagall, then it’s right down to the lakeside promenade which is energetic with avenue performers and households taking a late-afternoon stroll. We comply with the lakeshore till we get to the Seebad Utoquai, a Nineteenth-century picket public baths constructed on stilts over the water, with cafe, altering rooms and sundeck. We purchase sizzling chocolate and watch as a handful of plucky locals make the leap, swimming out to the close by pontoon.
If I’d had the foresight to pack a swimming costume, I might need joined them, however lake swimming was not on my agenda for this journey. Maybe it ought to have been. The times when Lake Zurich used to freeze over solely in winter are lengthy behind us (the final time was in 1963). Not solely is the local weather disaster redrawing the map of the place we select to journey – with many forsaking southern Europe in excessive summer time – however it would inevitably have an effect on when we journey, with extra of us selecting to take our major holidays in the cooler months.
In what looks as if the blink of an eye fixed we’re again at Zurich’s grand station to catch a TGV to Paris, a metropolis that is aware of no off-season, and our closing vacation spot earlier than heading dwelling. As we await our practice, we are able to see the picket stalls being erected for the forthcoming Christkindlimarkt, considered one of the biggest indoor Christmas markets in Europe, which takes over the station concourse from the tip of November and greets arriving travellers with the odor of roasting chestnuts and mulled wine. Winterrailing has its benefits.
The journey was offered by Byway Journey. An identical nine-day bespoke itinerary prices from £1,405pp, together with Eurostar tickets, Interrail cross and lodging. Resort lodging in Zurich was offered by Zurich Tourism
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