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Why urea is the ‘unsexy’ hero of skincare

Why urea is the ‘unsexy’ hero of skincare

Like each trade, skincare has just a few big-name gamers. A-listers like retinol and hyaluronic acid monopolize consideration and media protection. However what in regards to the unsung heroes – like dependable, hardworking urea?

“It’s a very underrated ingredient,” says Dr Mark Strom, a dermatologist in New York Metropolis.

Strom describes urea as a “workhorse”, saying: “It does a variety of useful issues for the pores and skin, nevertheless it’s not horny.” Why not? Effectively, some individuals affiliate it with urine.

Right here’s what you could learn about urea.

What’s urea?

Urea is a nitrogen molecule, and a chemical byproduct of the physique’s metabolic breakdown of proteins. In mammals, it’s discovered most abundantly in urine, in addition to blood, sweat and milk.

Greater than 90% of world urea manufacturing goes into agriculture; it’s a common fertilizer ingredient and has been described as “the meals of meals”.

In terms of skincare, urea is most frequently utilized in lotions, nevertheless it may also be a part of gels, lotions and ointments. It serves as a humectant – which means, it retains moisture within the high layer of the pores and skin. This fortifies the pores and skin barrier and ends in “a extra moisturized and plumped feeling to the pores and skin”, says Strom.

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It’s bought in a spread of concentrations, as much as 40%. At concentrations above 10%, it additionally serves as a keratolytic, an exfoliant that helps the physique shed the highest layer of pores and skin. If not exfoliated, useless pores and skin cells construct up and may end up in dry, cracked pores and skin, “like on the heels of the toes”, Strom says.

Is urea pee?

No.

Though urea is likely one of the most considerable elements of urine, business urea is an artificial produced in laboratories. You possibly can see some very sophisticated diagrams about the way it’s produced right here, none of which point out bathrooms.

Which situations can a urea cream deal with?

Urea is often used to deal with pores and skin that’s “actually dry and tough”, says Dr Naeha Gupta, a board licensed dermatologist.

These tough patches are sometimes the results of situations like eczema, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and keratosis pilaris, a typical and innocent situation that causes small purple bumps to seem on the higher arms, legs and buttocks. These situations all may end up in the buildup of useless pores and skin cells, and “one thing like urea will be actually useful for breaking down the pores and skin and letting it discharge”, says Strom.

Excessive concentrations of urea can break down the thick-skin buildup in calluses, says Dr Rajani Katta, scientific professor of dermatology on the McGovern Medical College on the College of Texas Houston.

Urea may also be used to “soften and take away broken or diseased nails”, based on the Cleveland Clinic.

How do you utilize urea cream?

Low concentrations of urea – beneath 10% – are light and may safely be used on the physique a couple of times a day, Gupta says. She recommends making use of a cream after a bathe, when pores and skin has been patted dry however there’s nonetheless some water on its floor. “The cream can actually assist retain that moisture,” she says.

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Urea can be utilized on the face in low concentrations, however make certain to discover a product that’s particularly formulated for the face, as a result of the pores and skin there may be extra delicate, Strom says. Physique moisturizers have a tendency to incorporate increased concentrations of urea, which might irritate the face.

For toes and calluses, Gupta suggests making use of a higher-concentration urea product earlier than mattress, then slipping on socks. “That means, you make certain it’s not rubbing off and also you’re actually getting it into these thick areas,” she says.

I did this final week, and may verify my dry, cracked toes had been barely much less dry and cracked the subsequent morning.

What are the dangers of urea cream?

“Total, [urea] might be one of many safer components in skincare,” says Strom.

Nonetheless, there are some precautions to take. Whereas merchandise with low concentrations of urea will be safely utilized by most individuals, Katta means that merchandise with excessive concentrations of urea – 30% or above – be used beneath the supervision of a doctor.

“Since it may possibly break down thick pores and skin, it may possibly additionally break down regular pores and skin, so excessive concentrations are utilized in solely particular areas and really fastidiously,” Katta says.

In accordance with the Cleveland Clinic, it is best to seek the advice of a doctor if urea causes a rash, redness or irritation that doesn’t go away, or continued stinging or irritation.

In case you are pregnant, attempting to get pregnant or breastfeeding, you must also speak to a physician earlier than utilizing urea. This additionally applies when you have an an infection; damaged, infected or burnt pores and skin; or allergic reactions to meals, dyes, medicines or preservatives.

Do individuals use pee for skincare functions?

Sadly, it’s not unprecedented. However as one dermatologist advised the Impartial in 2016, placing urine in your face isn’t a good suggestion as a result of it may possibly trigger reactions and isn’t significantly efficient.


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