Friday, September 17, 2021
HomeU.S.ANigel Slater’s recipes for ice-cream sandwiches, and aubergines with coconut

Nigel Slater’s recipes for ice-cream sandwiches, and aubergines with coconut

It is the fleeting nature of ice-cream that appeals to me – the concept of catching one thing at its transient second of perfection. Within the case of ice-cream, that’s someplace alongside the highway from rock exhausting to milky puddle. They could deliver with them a way of peace and lazy summer season days, however ices additionally include a way of urgency. I used to be the child that might all the time select a wafer over a cornet, fascinated by the way in which the delicate biscuits caught to your lips, but additionally having fun with the race to complete earlier than the block of vanilla ice-cream dripped down my shirt.

The ice-cream sandwich has come a great distance since I used to be in brief trousers. Its flavourless wafers have now been ditched in favour of crisp cookies that flatter the flavour of the ice. I made a lemon model this week – a easy no-churn job with yoghurt, cream and lemon curd – and held it between skinny, crisp biscuits speckled with grated orange zest. Matching wafer to ice-cream could be enjoyable: chocolate ice-cream and ginger cookies; almond wafers to raspberry sorbet; pistachio biscuits holding saffron ice-cream. You may make almond tuiles, ginger snaps or the one I particularly like, a softer shortbread-style cookie that doesn’t go too exhausting within the freezer.

Earlier than we tucked into the platter of frosty lemon sandwiches, I had dropped at the desk an aubergine curry, spiced with ginger and turmeric, and plush with herbs, the warmth of the chilli softened with coconut milk. Our plates cleared, it appeared like the proper second for one thing cool and citrus, deeply nostalgic and but on the identical time recent and new.

Orange and lemon ice-cream sandwiches

Make the ice-cream first, then the biscuits. To assemble the sandwiches, I discover it best to position a biscuit high aspect down on the work floor, place an analogous dimension cookie cutter on high then spoon the ice-cream into the cookie cutter, gently smoothing the floor as I’m going. Take away the cookie cutter (it pulls away simply), place a second biscuit on high, then freeze instantly and proceed with the subsequent. It’s a manufacturing line job, however straightforward sufficient. You should have some ice-cream left over to maintain within the freezer for later. Makes 8 sandwiches

For the ice-cream:
double cream 500ml
pure yoghurt 200g
lemon curd 300g
lemons juice of two

For the biscuits:
butter 100g
caster sugar 25g
icing sugar 25g
plain flour 125g
cornflour 25g
orange 1 massive

For the ice-cream, whip the cream till it’s thick, stopping earlier than it’s stiff sufficient to sit down up in peaks. It ought to lie in slovenly folds. Stir within the yoghurt, lemon curd and juice. Tip every part right into a freezer field and freeze for no less than 4 hours. Beat each hour with a whisk to make sure a creamier consistency.

For the biscuits, line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Utilizing a meals mixer, beat the butter and sugars collectively till gentle and creamy. Sieve collectively the flour and cornflour. Finely grate the orange and add to the butter and sugar, then add the flour and blend briefly, till you may have a gentle dough.

Put the dough on a calmly floured work floor or pastry board, deliver collectively right into a ball, then roll out to roughly 5cm, roughly the thickness of two £1 cash. Utilizing a 7cm cookie cutter, lower out 16 biscuits and place them on the parchment-lined baking sheet, just a few centimetres aside. Relaxation the cookies for half-hour within the fridge.

Preheat the oven to 160C/fuel mark 3. Bake the cookies for 15-20 minutes, till pale golden brown. Take away from the oven and go away to accept 10 minutes, then fastidiously switch to a cooling rack utilizing a palette knife.

When the ice-cream has set and the biscuits are cooled, you’ll be able to assemble the sandwiches. Place a 2cm-thick layer of cream on half of the biscuits, then place the remaining biscuits on high. Freeze the sandwiches till wanted.

Aubergines with coriander and coconut

‘Spiced with ginger and turmeric, and plush with herbs’: aubergines with coriander and coconut. {Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

I’ve been making quite a lot of gently spicy meals this week, together with this vibrant inexperienced curry with mint and ginger. Serves 4

onions 3, medium
aubergines 2
olive oil 5 tbsp
ginger 40g
inexperienced chillies 2
mint 15g
coriander 30g
lime leaves 5
coconut milk 400ml
turmeric 1 tsp
to serve steamed rice or heat flatbread

Preheat the oven to 200C/fuel mark 6. Peel and roughly chop the onions, then put them in a roasting tin. Slice the aubergines in half lengthways, then lower every half into skinny slices, about 1cm thick and place them in with the onions. Pour over the olive oil, season calmly with salt and pepper, then toss the greens to coat them evenly within the oil. Bake the onions and aubergines for 45 minutes, letting them soften, turning them often.

Peel the ginger. In a blender or meals processor, cut back the chillies, mint leaves, coriander, lime leaves and ginger to a rough paste, then add the coconut milk and turmeric. Scrape right into a medium to massive saucepan then add the roasted onion and aubergine and go away to simmer over a reasonable warmth for 20 minutes, stirring often. Serve with steamed rice or heat flatbreads.

Observe Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater

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