Nigel Slater’s recipes for ceviche with citrus, and grapefruit posset

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Nigel Slater’s recipes for ceviche with citrus, and grapefruit posset

Halfway down the fridge is a drawer the place I hold the citrus fruit. Bracingly bitter marmalade oranges in winter; knobbly limes for inexperienced curries; pink grapefruits and blood oranges for his or her rose-tinted juice. This yr they have been joined by tiny clementines the dimensions of golf balls, and yuzus, for which I paid a king’s ransom, merely for his or her spirit-lifting scent.

Their juices, which differ in sweetness, may be enjoyable to mix. I significantly just like the spicy marriage of orange and lime. A mix of lemon and blood orange – say, one among lemon to 3 of orange – is as aromatic as strolling by means of a citrus grove on a winter’s morning. A glass of it’s an uplifting begin to the day, however it’s also a refreshing base for dressings or for a tropical fruit salad with mango and papaya.

I’ve been marinating snow-white halibut in a mix of lime and orange juice, including ardour fruit seeds for crunch and their juice for its deep sundown orange hue. Given Half-hour in a citrus and inexperienced chilli marinade, the fish turns into opaque and toothsome, one thing to toss with mint and coriander leaves for a light-weight spring lunch.

The blood orange season is longer now and they’re nonetheless as agency and sweet-sharp as once they first appeared in January. I’m as grateful for them now as I used to be in the midst of winter. Tossed with deep emerald peppery watercress, they kind one among my favorite salads, particularly if I bear in mind to sprinkle the fruit with a bit Japanese shichimi togarashi powder with its notes of citrus peel, dried chilli and darkish nori.

The pink grapefruit is the gray squirrel of the citrus world, making the traditional white grapefruit of my childhood really feel virtually extinct. The zest and juice of both fruit makes a superb chilly soufflé or comfortable, thick curd. This week I made a posset with them, a primrose-yellow cream, whose thick and creamy texture lay between curd and panna cotta. The deep citrus notes are completely pitched for a barely nippy spring day.

Ceviche with orange and fervour fruit

A light-weight and refreshing dish, wherein the fish wants simply Half-hour or so to “prepare dinner” in its marinade. I prefer to introduce the shallot or onion to the marinade after the preliminary relaxation, so the onion notes are light and the onions nonetheless have a bit crunch.

Scallops thickly sliced, salmon or agency, thick white fish all take effectively to being utilized in a ceviche. Somewhat goes a surprisingly good distance, however much more so for those who embrace some leaves. The pepperiness of watercress is sweet right here, but in addition the softer, barely bitter notes of chicory. A tangle of pea shoots is pleasant.

It’s important the dish be served chilled, however take it from the fridge a couple of minutes earlier than serving.
Serves 2-3. Prepared in 40 minutes

white fish comparable to sea bass or farmed halibut, filleted and skinned weight, 375g
blood oranges 3, one among them juiced (about 100ml)
limes juice of two (about 60ml)
ardour fruit 3
sizzling inexperienced chilli 1
white wine vinegar 2 tsp
shallot or purple onion 2 tbsp, finely chopped
coriander 1 small bunch
mint 15 leaves

Reduce the fish into cubes, roughly 2cm, and put them in a shallow bowl. Combine collectively the juices of 1 orange and the limes. Halve the eagerness fruit, then scoop out the juice and seeds with a teaspoon and add to the juices.

Slice the chilli in half, discard the seeds and core, then finely chop. Stir into the juices. Add the fish and vinegar to the juices and toss gently, then put aside within the fridge for 20-Half-hour. A couple of hours longer is not going to harm, however don’t depart the fish in its marinade in a single day, as the feel might flip “woolly”.

Slice the peel and pith from the blood oranges and separate the segments with a knife. Peel the shallot or purple onion, then finely cube. Stir the shallot or purple onion into the fish. Style the dressing and proper with extra vinegar if mandatory. It must be fruity and refreshing with a slight observe of acidity.

Chop the coriander and mint leaves, not too finely, then stir them into the dressing along with the segments of blood orange. Put aside for a couple of minutes earlier than serving.

Posset of pink grapefruit

Wealthy and creamy: pink grapefruit posset. {Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

The posset – a clean, creamy dessert – appears pleasant in small cups or glasses. The quantity in every will probably be small, however the dessert is wealthy, a lot creamier and sweeter than panna cotta, and is greatest served in elegant portions.

You will have 4 wine glasses or small china ramekins.
Makes 4. Prepared in 4½ hours

pink grapefruit 2
double cream 500ml
caster sugar 150g

To brighten: crystallised rose petals or skinny strips of crystallised orange peel

Grate the zest from 1 grapefruit. Reduce the fruit in half and squeeze the juice. You will have 90ml.

Put the cream, caster sugar and grapefruit zest in a saucepan and produce to the boil, stirring often to dissolve the sugar. (You might discover it has a gentle tendency to curdle, wherein case simply give it a fast whisk with a small whisk.) Decrease the warmth and depart to bubble for 3 minutes, now not, stirring every so often.

Take away from the warmth, stir within the grapefruit juice and depart to settle. Pour into 4 small wine glasses or cups and depart to chill. Refrigerate for 3-4 hours till set.

To complete, reduce the peel from the opposite grapefruit, eradicating each little bit of white pith. Separate the segments and put aside with any juice. (I be certain to squeeze the eliminated peel over them. It all the time has little bit of fruit hooked up.) When the possets are set, place just a few segments of grapefruit on every, and if you want, a crystallised rose petal or piece of crystallised peel.

We purpose to publish recipes for fish rated as sustainable by the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Information

Observe Nigel on Instagram @NigelSlater




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